COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE –Peter Pan may be a boy that never grows up, but Peter’s Pan is a restaurant that’s anything but adolescent.
The restaurant has been grilling up prime ribs and steaks since 1993 at its location on Chaeng Wattana Road. Only recently has its pioneer, Peter Pilara, handed over the secret recipes to his nephew and niece, who now run the business. Moving into the second generation has meant a new location for the steakhouse and this change could be considered somewhat puzzling. Known as an American fine-dining restaurant serving upscale international cuisine, Peter’s Pan has become one of the newest tenants of the Mille Malle shopping complex on Sukhumvit 20.
Peter’s Pan is not a typical “mall restaurant.” Its prices ensure that very few people will choose to dine there on a whim. The menu relies heavily on import products. Its steaks come primarily from Australia, Japan and the US. There’s also an extensive seafood menu that includes Hamaji yellow tail from Japan (THB850) and US cod loin served in hollandaise sauce with white asparagus (THB800). Peter Pan’s big Kahuna dish comes with the illustrious surf and turf (THB1,500) – a monster Maine lobster and Black Angus fillet. There’s also an extensive wine and spirits menu, capable of accompanying every taste from land to sea. My most recent trip to Peter’s Pan was inspired by my curiosity about how the restaurant could possibly attract crowds to such a location, given its hefty price tags.
The wooden doors leading to Peter’s Pan swing open to an unlikely sight – an entire wall filled with hundreds of collected editions of National Geographic. At first blush, it seems more like a museum than a restaurant. Ban Chiang and Khmer stone relics dress the shelves and a glass case displays Tang Dynasty figurines from around 1,000 years ago. It’s easy to get lost eyeballing these pieces, but a quick snap back to reality reveals the restaurant’s wider purpose. Wine glasses and multi-colored napkins festoon the tables and the banquet seating to the restaurant’s side. Sixties music filters through the air. Peter’s Pan’s is more the type of joint for a family dinner or meeting the parents, as opposed to a late night rendezvous.
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To start, I warmed myself up from the heavy rain outside with a bowl of lip-smacking, New England-style clam chowder (THB250). The chowder felt creamy and smooth to the taste, not thick or gloppy by any means. It even contained an unconventional kick of spice, which I loved.
For an entrée, I opted for the New York steak – an ironic blend of Thai and French beef (THB750) seared over a charcoal grill and served with fried potatoes, sweet corn and broccoli. According to the menu, the cow had been grain-fed for 120 days, which is supposed to create a better-marbled cut. I enjoyed the accompanying potato, corn and broccoli, but feel like there wasn’t enough happening on the side. For me, the meal itself would have been more balanced with a jazzier side dish or two.
A much better choice of entrée was the rack of Australian lamb (THB800), ordered by my dining partner. It came piled high on the plate, sopping with au jus over mashed potatoes and a side of mint jelly.
The service at Peter’s Pan lived up to my expectations. Our waiter was attentive and the plates were cleared in no time even as more customers sat down to eat. However, I was disappointed at the end of my meal to see five or six ants scuttling around on the wood table. While the food was satisfying, these little guys did put something of a damper on the evening.
Peter’s Pan’s quaint atmosphere makes it an unlikely location for late-night meet ups with friends. For that reason, some people might rule out Peter’s Pan completely, but I would say that’s a little too rash. The next time Mom and Pops are in town, Peter’s Pan could be right up their alley.
FIND IT:
Peter’s Pan
Second Floor, Mille Malle Sukhumvit Soi 20, Bangkok, Thailand
Tel. +662-663-4560
Open daily 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm
Photos: Barbara Woolsey
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