I’ve never quite trusted fancy restaurants for street food. Oftentimes I’ve found that the food quality is sacrificed for upscale accouterments like air-conditioning so, as a general rule in Bangkok, I never confuse posh and “street cool.’ J’ Koy seems to once again prove my hunch correct.
This restaurant on Petchburi Rd is not glamorous in its setting or ambience. It’s loud, very down-to-earth and a little hectic. That said, it’s loved by the locals. Generally packed by 6PM, J’ Koy stays open until very late at night. But don’t let it’s popularity turn you off. Thanks to an efficient kitchen staff, the wait for a table of four isn’t as bad as you might expect—10 minutes maximum. My first order came within 5 minutes.
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J’ Koy is an Isan restaurant, and with Isan food authenticity is paramount. Street food classics like Som Tum (Spicy papaya salad) and Gai Yang (Grilled chicken) are standouts here.
Many of the dishes will taste exactly how a native Isan would have them from a Som-Tum cart off the street in Bangkok. As it’s turns out, J’Koy has its origins as a small street-side vendor, having been in service at this very spot for over a decade. Because of the undying support from the locals, J’Koy has been able to expand into a proper indoor restaurant where it operates today.
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As for my recommendations, I will give my first shout-out to “Pladook Foo” or Spicy Crispy Catfish Salad (THB100)—the dish that seemed to appear on every table. The fluffy flesh of river catfish is deep-fried until crispy and golden brown, served with green mango sauce—sweet and sour the way it’s supposed to be.
Next up, I highly recommend that you try at least one of the famous Som Tum dishes, which come in great variety at J’Koy. Opt for “Som-Tum Thai” (Papaya Salad with Peanuts, THB35) to be safe, or try the one with preserved fish (also THB35) if you want to be daring. Customize the level of spiciness to suit your palate. My warning, though, is that since J’Koy is highly non-touristy, the standard level of spiciness will already make many locals sweat. Unless you want to breath fire, ask for “mai-ped” (“not spicy”) to soften it down a little.
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For protein, “Gai-Yang” will be an excellent choice for anyone. The meat is juicy, smoky and cooked to perfection. Other favorite dishes of mine include “Neur Namtok” (Grilled Beef Spicy Salad with Mint Leaves, THB70), “Kaw Moo Yang” (Grilled pork neck, THB70) and “Soup Naw-Mai” (Bamboo Shoot Spicy Salad, THB60), all of which should always be accompanied by your own serving of sticky rice at THB15 each.
After everything was said and done, it only cost me a little bit over THB500 to fill up four hungry tummies. Not a bad deal considering the quality.
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Opening hours: 5p.m.-3a.m.
Open every day except for 2 Sundays in a month with no specific pattern
Tel: 081-818-3625
Direction: From Ratchathewi BTS station, depart Phayathai Rd. towards Soi Phaya Nak, then turn left onto Petchaburi Rd. J’Koy is to your left hand side within a 5-minutes walk.
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