COCONUTS BANGKOK WEEKENDER: Koh Kood

Back in March I spent about a month island hopping. I was in search of tranquility and personal reflection, but what I found was overcrowded, overpriced and over-commercialized destinations that employed jaded locals. My dreams of getting lost in the crystalline blue waters of the Andaman seemed silly as I looked out at beaches littered with trash. Where were those beautiful and peaceful spots on all the postcards?

All seemed lost until one day when I heard an older expat raving about a little-known island called Koh Kood. After some investigation, I was cautioned about the inconvenience of traveling to this island, which sealed the deal for me. Anything that’s too daunting for the average out-of-towner or flashpacker is exactly what I wanted in a getaway.

I report with some reluctance that Koh Kood is indeed a great island getaway. It’s the sort of place that ends up as your desktop background on your office computer, a reminder that things can be better.

Getting there:

Getting to Koh Kood is a pain in the ass, but it’s worth it

You have four modes of transit. You can drive, fly, hire taxi or take a bus. I have provided more detail below on each. Once you decide on your mode of transit to Trat you will need to hire a taxi to the Laem Sok Pier.

There are two separate ferry companies and both leave at the same time everyday, 12:30pm from Laem Sok Pier to Koh Kood and 10:30am returning from the island.

You have one shot to get on and off the island each day and that’s it. Once you’re on the ferry ride is an hour and forty minutes long. Bring a book.

Once you are on the island anticipate at least a twenty-minute songtell ride as the pier is on the opposite side of the island from all resorts and guesthouses.

Drive:

If you have a car this will be the most convenient and direct route to the pier. Your drive will take anywhere from 4-5 hours so I suggest leaving the house around 6:30am.

Directions: Rama IX Road to get out of city. Take the Ban Bung exit toward Highway 344. At the Klaeng crossroads turn left onto Highway 3 toward Chantaburi. Continue onto Route 3148 and take a left onto Route 3155.

Below is a Google map link from Suvarnabhumi:

View Larger Map

Fly:

Bangkok Airways is the sole owner and operator of the Trat airport and they have one servicing flight at 8:30am that will get you to the pier on time. Additionally, I tried to make the 1:45pm returning flight to Suvarnabhumi and missed it by 10 minutes. Spare yourself the hassle by spending the afternoon wandering Trat City and book the 6:30pm flight. It’s only an hour long so after they serve the obligatory snacks you will be back on the ground.

Prior to arriving at the Trat airport, I tried booking a taxi service but the airport has a tight seal on that since have a partnership with a tour company. Be prepared to shell out THB2,000 for a shuttle to the pier. They are kind enough to include the THB200 ferry ride in the package.

Bus:

If you choose to take a bus use the Mo Chit or Ekkamai bus terminals. They both have a 6:00am buses leaving for Trat daily, but don’t be late because rumor has it that the 7:00am bus may force you to miss the island ferry. Bus transportation is the most affordable and will cost you around THB300.

Taxi:

Troll your neighborhood and ask a taxi ahead of time to drive you to and from Bangkok-Trat, a fair fee is around THB5,000. If you pack four of your friends into the hired car this is easily the most convenient route back and forth from the pier. OR there are a number or car services that you can book ahead of time, costs are comparable with a local taxi, check out the Oriental Escape, you can book a driver online.

Sleep:

I stayed at the modern but cozy bungalows of The Beach Natural Resort. The rooms cost about THB1,800 a night and feature private spa showers, air con, and crisp white linens on the bed. The small staff was great. Every member of the little employee-run operation was unbelievably friendly. They also make a mean margarita.

I checked out a Tinkerbell Resort, which is situated on a beautiful stretch of public beach. The staff was pleasant, the drinks and food were tasty, but the views wowed – and really that’s all that matters. In a comical twist there is another resort on the island called Peter Pan and Captain Hook, however this spot was closed for construction while I was here. I was also dying to see the famed Soneva Kiri, as it’s a 6-star resort. Unfortunately, if you’re not a hotel guest they will not allow you on the property, even for a dinner reservation. The island boasts around 40 small properties with varying degrees of quality and cleanliness but wherever you choose I’m sure the scenery will not disappoint you.

Out and about:

Lazy beach days are the best but if you’re in the mood for a little action then there are plenty of activities for you. If you are looking for banana boat rides or elephant treks you better book your trip elsewhere, however, because these services don’t exist on Koh Kood.

I suggest renting a motorbike for the day and scooting around the island. Sites include two treks for waterfalls, two large banyan trees tucked deep into the forest, an enormous Buddha structure with viewpoint tower and plenty of undisturbed beaches to discover. There is also a dive shop with several locations peppered around the island and they offer reasonable prices for scuba diving and snorkeling.

If you are in search of fire dancers and helium balloons then Koh Kood is not the place for you. There are two stand-alone restaurants on the island, a pizza joint and a reggae bar. Both appeared to be open only during the day. That said, I traveled to the island during the off-season so hours of operation may vary during high times.

Important note: There are no 7-11s, no ATMS, and no banks on the island so be sure to bring enough cash to last you for your stay. I didn’t end up spending very much baht when I was outside my resort because there are only a handful of pop-up mom ’n pop shops and noodle carts around the village. Unless I was in a resort or bungalow store I didn’t see any souvenir or clothing shops.

If you are searching for some decompression from the bustle of city life then Koh Kood is the weekend getaway for you. Koh Kood is the ideal combination of lush forestry, impeccable beaches, friendly locals, and relaxation.

I’ve often heard sad stories about how the islands were better back in the day when all beaches were remote beaches and hatched roofs and baby powder were the norm. At least for me, Koh Kood is what I had hoped for when I looked at those postcards.