In the White Temple’s shadow lies the Black House (photo essay)

By Sandy Voratanitkitkul

Nov 11, 2014 | 12:34pm Bangkok time

In May, northern Thailand was hit by a 6.3-magnitude earthquake just outside Chiang Rai, the quiet sister city of Chiang Mai. While many anguished over the damage done to the renowned Wat Rong Khun (White Temple) of artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, another disaster struck its lesser known companion, the home of Chalermchai’s mentor about 24 kilometers to the north.

Another meticulously constructed monument to Thai expression, the Baan Dam (Black House) lost its guiding force with the death of national artist Thawan Duchanee, who died Sept. 3.

If the White Temple is some kind of baroque heaven, the Black House is its skull-festooned goth older brother. Thawan’s home is a compound of multiple buildings, the most striking of which is its main entrance. Akin to a Viking hall, the scale is exaggerated with a ceiling several stories high. Half the interior is currently under construction, which distracts from the breathtakingly large meeting tables with long snake skins and preserved crocodile centerpieces. At the head of each table is an ornate chair sculpted of antlers and animal skins.

Photo: Maynisa Puengton

Throughout Thawan’s compound, visitors will stumble upon the living and the dead. Behind the entrance building, several locals care for a variety of exotic animals, most notably an enormous snake which roams free. Ponies grazing throughout the property contrast an entire elephant’s skeleton arranged beneath a stilt house.

Travel south on the property to check out three chedi buildings located along a small lake. Due to the domed shape of the chedis, entering immerses one in a sound bath, like a scaled-down version of George Van Tassel’s Integratron. The interiors are filled with carefully arranged patterns of large shells, crocodile skins, feathered spears and antler chairs. An opening in the roof lets in a large, illuminating ray of light.

East of the chedis, a Dune-like sandworm building stands and is most certainly locked. This building is a departure from others on the property due to its anthropomorphic nature and lack of vague traditionalism. It was the bedroom of the late Thawan.

Over a year ago, before Thawan’s death, planning a visit to the Black House would have been puzzling to many outside the art community and Chiang Rai. In life, Thawan welcomed many visitors, but in death, he’s gained even more notoriety.

The sculptures found throughout the residence and each building is a personal representation of Thawan as a man and artist, dark and spiritual. Sadly, since his passing, a sense of disorder has disrupted his meticulous vision. With constant construction throughout the Black House, his signature tables have been crammed into smaller spaces, and his careful arrangements now lie in disarray.

It is unclear if those entrusted with the Black House will be able to maintain what would otherwise be considered Thawan’s opus.

Best to go before the last spark dies, and nothing remains but a Tourism Authority of Thailand seal at the entrance.

Photo: Maynisa Puengton

If you want to make a weekend run up to see the White Temple and Black House, book a flight to Chiang Rai’s international airport. From there, drive north on Highway 1 (Phahonyothin Road) past the Boon Rawd Brewery (Singha) and turn left on Moo 13 (look for the white and green sign with handwritten black lettering). Travel 450 meters and take another left (there will be a large blue sign indicating Baan Dam). Parking is on the right.