COCONUTS HOT SPOT — Turkish cuisine is often misunderstood in Thailand. It should not be confused with the other, more prominent Arabic and Lebanese restaurants in town, nor can it be characterized by Döner Kebab alone
Bangkok now has a handful of Turkish restaurants scattered around, the newest of which offers a convenient and affordable option for real Turkish food cooked by a real Turkish chef. Located in the chic Baan Silom complex, Ottoman Restaurant is easy to identify by its tacky, traditional red-and-white striped awning, and its extensive menu offers all the familiars with a few surprises.
Most notable for anyone who’s been to Turkey is the Turkish Breakfast place (THB180). The set comes with sliced tomato, cucumber, olives, sheep’s milk cheese, emmental cheese, honey and freshly baked pide, or Turkish flatbread.
You can also make some substitutions (more of this, less of that). What’s missing is the fried egg, fruit jam and beef salami, but they can be ordered separately for an extra charge.
Other favorites here include the always-obligatory Hummus (THB 80), a blend of mashed chickpeas, minced garlic, lemon juice, olive oil and tahini (sesame paste) served to the right consistency. The hummus goes particularly well with their very thin Lavas bread (THB50), which comes inflated right from the oven and easily breaks off into small pieces with a crispy crunch.
No Turkish meal is complete without some meat. More specifically, meat covered in zesty tomato and creamy yoghurt sauces. The Yoghurtlu Kebab (THB250) is usually a good place to start. Two minced-beef “Urfa Kebabs” are served in a fair amount of sauce with a side of grilled tomatoes and Turkish-style peppercinis. The meat itself is deliciously seasoned. The yoghurt sauce (haydari), on the other hand, is a big letdown; it’s neither thick nor tasty enough. It seems to be missing some essential herbs, or perhaps just not enough tahini in the mix.
A better bet in this restaurant is the Lahmacun (THB100), aka Turkish pizza, but is nothing like an Italian pizza. A very thin layer of minced meat, sauce and herbs are spread over a very thin flat bread (similar to nan) and baked. You can tear it off into small pieces to eat, or use it as a wrap for meats and salads. The Turkish Tea (THB20) is also a must, both before and after your meal. They also offer imported fruit juices, but unfortunately no Turkish Efes beer.
Hopefully the Turkish dining scene will continue to expand. There are currently only a few that can be considered truly legit. Other Middle Eastern restaurants may offer a few Turkish-inspired dishes.
The ones that we do have here could learn a thing or two from their more-popular Lebanese competitors, the most important being the complimentary sauces and pickled veggies that diners in Bangkok have come to expect.
Once you’re used to a freshly made garlic mousse or a spicy chili sauce to adorn your meats and pita, a bottle of Tabasco sauce just no longer makes the cut.
FIND IT:
10am – midnight, daily
Baan Silom
Soi Silom 19
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