Kom-Ba-Wa brings fresh, welcome departures to Japanese cuisine

By Natalie B. Compton

Jul 21, 2015 | 4:52pm Bangkok time

COCONUTS HOT SPOT — Soi Suan Plu is the right blend of cool from street food to Smalls. Tilting it a little further toward trendy, contemporary Japanese newcomer Kom-Ba-Wa recently opened its industrial-glass doors to the public, bringing us sushi and sashimi classics along with fun, reinvented favorites.

Frederic Meyer is behind the new restaurant, adding another gem to the his portfolio which already counts Namsaah Bottling Trust and Pizza Massilia. Kom-Ba-Wa is just as aesthetically pleasing as his other places with bold chandeliers and bright colors. Tables are set with unique little ceramic plates, a giant blowfish hangs on the wall – the place is fun while still maintaining a sexy feel with dim lighting and glowing candelabra.

Kom-Ba-Wa’s beverage menu is short and sweet. Just three options make the cocktail list, although the sake, whisky and spirits list offers more to play with. The Kyoto Shiroku (THB290) is crisp, lemony, and smooth, a perfect way to start a meal. Wine lovers will drool over the selections available by the bottle and glass starting at just THB250.

Japanese Chef Goro Takatsu has created a menu as amusing as the restaurant’s decor. The Japanese Sakura Shrimp Cakes with Homemade Bonito Flakes and Citrus Sauce (THB390) are a far cry from basic seafood cake. Served on hot stones, the spongy bites are kept warm while you Instagram the creative dish. For something decadent in every way, order the Fresh Maine Lobster with Homemade Squid Ink Ramen and Japanese Uni Sauce (THB1,500). The Sake Blanc Manger served with Salty Plum Sorbet (THB220) serves as an unexpected childhood throwback. The creamy dessert will bring back memories of Laffy Taffy candy.

In addition to attention-grabbing menu items, more simple dishes also show off Chef Takatsu’s talents. The Octopus Confit with Eggplant, Lotus Roots, and Heirloom Tomato (890 THB) is succulent and hearty. The Miso Marinated Avocado (THB120) is a petite homage to the delicious fruit.

There’s a lot to enjoy at Kom-Ba-Wa, making the place hard to wrap up in just one visit. Fortunately, it’s a restaurant that checks a lot of boxes, making it an easy option for lots of occasions. Whether you’re looking for a spot for bites after work or a sumptuous date night, head over to Soi Suan Plu’s latest.